The Breathtaking Beauty of Eldgjá Canyon

By Johanna Sigurðardóttir Verified Expert

Have you ever wanted to walk in a canyon that brought Europe to its knees, twice? In Iceland, the Eldgjá Canyon lies dormant and waiting for visitors to enjoy the beautiful scenery. Little do they know that this canyon holds some impressive records and a vicious past. Follow us as we dive into the Fire Canyon to explore dramatic history and stunning landscapes.

Eldgjá Canyon – An Overview

Iceland is not the one to be shy when it comes to natural wonders. Sitting on top of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, this land of fire and ice has the largest glacier in Europe and the largest volcanic canyon in the world. With an impressive 40 kilometers in length, 600 meters wide, and 270 meters deep, Eldgjá is larger than any other volcanic canyon on the planet.

The Discovery of Eldgja Canyon

Eldgja Canyon was discovered by Porvaldur Thoroddsen in 1893. He was a geologist, and as he was riding through the countryside of southern Iceland, he came across this incredible fissure in the earth, almost 75 kilometers long. 

Needless to say, this fissure, created by an eruption, included Eldgja Canyon. While Porvaldur attempted to date the eruption, it was only later, via in-depth scientific and geographical studies, that the true eruption period could be established.

The Geological Significance of Eldgjá Canyon

The Eldgjá Canyon is a long-time result of the shift between the American and Eurasian tectonic plates. It is something called a “graben” which basically means a ditch of magnificent proportions. Such a thing forms when tectonic plates move away from each other and leave a deep canyon between them. In this case, it created the first part of what would become the Eldgjá Canyon.

Eldgjá is connected to the Katla volcanic system, which is southwest of the canyon. The graben was later violently made larger in a volcanic event that would impact the entire known world at the time.

The Great Eruption of the Year 939

In a specific tectonic event in the late 930s, magma found its way to newly created hollows underneath Iceland. This magma eventually seeped into the magmatic chambers connected to Katla, triggering a violent eruption.

Since Vikings had a lack of seismic technology to read and document these events, it was hard to pinpoint exactly when the eruption started. However, recent discoveries have estimated that the eruption went on between 939 and 940 and marks the largest Holocene eruption of the Katla volcanic system as well as the largest effusive eruption on Earth in the last few millennia.

During this time, 16 individual and massive eruptions took place in and around the Eldgjá Canyon. These are the only known eruptions of the Katla volcanic system outside its main caldera. These took place in what is now known as Eldgjá Canyon, or “Fire Canyon” as it translates to.

As Eldgjá cracked open, lava violently spurted out of openings in the central and southern parts of the canyon. The lava streams ran through rivers and canyons from the southern highlands to the North Atlantic Ocean in the south. This would eventually become the world’s largest known lava flow. The amount of lava that came out is estimated to be no less than 18.6 cubic kilometers and covers an area of 780 square kilometers. That’s larger than 13 Manhattans combined.

That is only what the Eldgjá eruption produced on the ground. The ash and gases that were discharged into the air during this period are unprecedented in recorded time. The amount of sulfur dioxide (a very acidic and harmful compound) reached close to 232 million metric tons and the ash and lava rock that landed after the impact covered 20,000 square kilometers in Iceland alone. Much of the ash and poisonous gases traveled into the atmosphere and spread over large parts of the globe. Traces of this event have been found as far away as Australia.

The Human Impact of the Great Eruption

Records from all over the world have attested to the massive global impact of the Eldgjá eruption. Irish monks wrote down accounts of the “sky being as red as blood” on multiple occasions at the time of the eruption. Italian scholars wrote that the sun barely emitted any light or heat at the time, and many described the sun as if “…they saw the sun as half.”

The amount of ash flung into the sky from the Eldgjá eruption had such a large climate impact that the average global temperatures went down about 1 degree Celsius. This might not seem as much, but it had serious impacts on the climate and is believed to be contributing to multiple historical events in Europe, Asia, and Northern Africa.

In Europe and Asia, the winters became incredibly harsh with lakes and rivers freezing over. In the summers of 939-942, these areas were hit with severe drought, and the poisonous compounds devastated crops and killed livestock. These events led to widespread famine and are believed to be one of the causes of riots in Japan and a contributing factor to the fall of a dynasty in China.

In Iceland, many farms had to be abandoned, either from being engulfed in the lava flows or from being covered with a full meter of volcanic ash and pumice.

Geological Structures and Ground Deformation

The volcanic activity at Eldgja has not just shaped the landscape at large but has also created all sorts of interesting geological features that can be found in and around the canyon, such as spatter ramparts, hornitos, pyroclastic cones, normal faults, lava lakes, and ground fractures.

Ground deformation is when the surface of the ground gets somehow deformed due to volcanic activity (hence why it’s also referred to as Volcano Deformation). This deformation can be sinking, lifting up, cracking, swelling, you name it. When we refer to volcano or ground deformation, it also doesn’t just refer to changes during or because of an eruption. This can be because of anything linked to the volcanic system, such as gasses, magma, or underground movements.

At Eldgja, you’re dealing with all of the above, with Katla being one of the most active volcanic systems in Iceland and being so close to the Mid-Atlantic Rift where the two tectonic plates are constantly pushing apart, leading to a further divide of at least 2.5 centimeters (or 0.9 inches) each year. Therefore, it should come as no surprise that the ground deformation at the canyon is ongoing. But don’t worry, this is a slow and gradual process, and visitors don’t need to fear for their safety.

Natural Attractions at the Eldgjá Canyon

This unmatched volcanic crater once put the world into such a dire state that it was believed to be a divine intervention. However, Eldgjá Canyon is now a popular hiking area and boasts dramatic waterfalls and striking rock formations. Walking there today, it’s hard to imagine what havoc this powerful canyon once unleashed on the world.

Ófærufoss Waterfall

The gem of Eldgjá Canyon is the stunning Ófærufoss Waterfall. It is a two-tier waterfall that is roughly 40 meters tall and is fed by the river Ófæra. Up until the 1990s, this waterfall had a natural “bridge” arching over the second step of the waterfall, making it resemble something out of a fairytale. Unfortunately, that arch was broken by a heavy spring flood and has disappeared, leaving only traces of it on the sides.

To reach the waterfall, you will have to hike for about 2.5 kilometers from the Eldgjá parking area. It takes some time and is not an easy hike, but well worth the effort.

Lakagígar Craters

In a 25-kilometer-long line parallel to the Eldgjá Canyon, there are almost 130 craters that stand as testimony of another devastating eruption. In 1783-1784, the volcano Laki had a series of explosive eruptions that produced another bout of ash clouds and poisonous rain that was on par with the Eldgjá Canyon eruption.

The eruption also caused significant food shortages in the European continent, Asia, and Northern Africa. Egypt and France were hit particularly hard, and the impact on France eventually contributed to the start of the French Revolution. The revolution had multiple leading causes, but the food shortage brought on by the eruption was a significant one.

On top of that, ports all over Europe had to be closed due to the dense layer of ash that layered on top of the water. This seriously impacted the trade on the continent. Multiple ports in Iceland were impossible to enter for a long time, putting a strain on the Icelandic economy.

Today, however, these craters are covered in thick, green moss and are not causing any trouble for anyone. To see them, it’s recommended to hike up the Laki Mountain from the Laki parking area. It’s about 2 kilometers long and you will be able to see the entire row of craters stretching towards Vatnajökull Glacier.

Huldufoss Waterfall

The odds of you having heard of this waterfall are slim as it’s one of the country’s hidden gems and is mostly called Silfurfoss Waterfall. The name originated from Gullfoss. Gullfoss Waterfall, which translates to “Golden Waterfall”, somewhat resembles Silfurfoss, hence the name which translates to “Silver Waterfall”.

Langisjor Lake

Langisjor Lake, which translates to “Long Sea,” lies in the western part of Vatnajökull National Park, with one end near the edge of the glacier. The lake is 20 kilometers long, 2 kilometers wide, and 75 meters at its deepest, and famous for its spectacular views.

Fjadrargljufur Canyon

There’s a lot of folklore surrounding the Icelandic elves and Fjadrargljufur Canyon, and once you visit, you will understand why. This fairy-tale-like canyon with its lush green vegetation, moss-covered cliffs, and the Fjadra River flowing through it looks like it just jumped off the big screen of some epic movie like The Hobbit. The canyon is roughly 2 kilometers long, making it a great option for a short and impressive hike with its cliff walls that can go up to 100 meters high.

Hiking Trails Around Eldgjá Canyon

Two main trails from the Eldgjá Canyon parking area will offer great views from start to finish:

Ófærufoss

This is a 2.5-kilometer-long trail that ends with a scenic view of the Ófærufoss Waterfall. It is classified as a challenging hike but most of the trail is along an easy path at the bottom of the canyon. The challenging part comes when you get to the waterfall and whenever you go up and down the steep trails to and from the canyon.

This trail will take around 1.5 hours to complete, so you won’t have to pack more than snacks and drinks to survive. Most of the hike goes through the bottom of the Eldgjá Canyon, so you will get the opportunity to see all the rock formations and plenty of vibrant highland flowers.

Gjátindur

If you want more of a challenge, this 7-kilometer hike will be right up your alley. This route leads through the northern part of the Eldgjá Canyon and up the Gjátindur mountain. This trail takes you past the Ófærufoss Waterfall and then up the eastern edge of Eldgjá Canyon until you get to the top of the mountain.

This is also a challenging hike and the change in elevation makes it tougher than the previous one. On a good day, you can do this in 3 hours, but bank on 4 hours if you are the type to stop and enjoy the view. Since this hike will take longer, it’s important to pack something to eat as well as a good amount of water or drinks. Sitting at the top and enjoying the view whilst you eat is highly recommended as you will be able to see most of Eldgjá Canyon from the top.

What to Bring on a Hike in the Eldgjá Canyon

Proper preparations are key to a successful and enjoyable hike. Check below for some important things to pack when hiking in the area:

• A sturdy pair of boots is a must. Even if the trail looks well-kept and easy, the Icelandic Highlands are rough, and the ground is often a little rocky. Waterproof shoes with a good grip will make a massive difference compared to the sneakers we wear on the streets.
• Wind- and waterproof jacket to keep you dry and warm. Iceland is a windy place, even in the sheltered Eldgjá Canyon.
• Snacks and drinks to keep your energy up will have a bigger effect on your mood than you might think. Hiking can be surprisingly tiring. Adapt the amount to the trail you’re walking.
• A backpack to hold your things and possible clothing items if it gets too warm will free up your hands to snack or snap pictures.

The last thing you need to remember is that an umbrella is not going to do you any good in Iceland. With the constant winds, you might end up like Mary Poppins or see your umbrella fly away from you.

Where is Eldgjá Canyon?

We mentioned earlier that the Eldgjá Canyon was a part of the Katla Volcanic system, so it should come as no surprise that the canyon is a part of the Katla Geopark. The Eldgjá Canyon is in the southern part of the highlands and lies partly in the Vatnajökull National Park.

How do You Get to Eldgjá Canyon?

The Eldgjá Canyon can be reached via a self-drive or as a part of a private tour package. Unfortunately, there aren’t any public guided tours in the area, since the Eldgjá Canyon is a little bit off the beaten path in the highlands.

Self-drive

Reaching the Eldgjá Canyon from Reykjavik is easy, but it will take some time. Take Ring Road 1 heading east and continue until you reach the turnoff to Road 208. Follow this road and continue as it changes to F208. On this road, you will eventually see the Eldgjá parking area. This should take roughly 4 hours and cover around 275 kilometers.

You could also head into the highlands after you pass Selfoss and approach the Eldgjá Canyon from the north. This will take roughly 30 to 60 minutes longer and allow you to stop by the Sigöldugljúfur on your way.

Since the Eldgjá Canyon is in the Highlands, you will have to drive on the F-roads in Iceland, which means you must have a 4x4 vehicle.

When Should I visit Eldgjá Canyon?

Since the Eldgjá Canyon is in the highlands, you must find time to visit Iceland in the summer. In the winter, the F-roads in Iceland are closed and won’t open until June, and sometimes even July. The roads often stay open until late September but could be closed sooner if the winter season arrives early.

This time of year, it’s the perfect time to get the best conditions for the hikes and see Icelandic nature at its peak. We recommend aiming for Iceland in August when the flowers have fully bloomed, and the weather is likely to be mild and sunny. The Midnight Sun might keep you company if you decide to stay out late, and you are less likely to run into other visitors early in the morning and late afternoon.

What to Think of at the Eldgjá Canyon

Since you will be venturing into the Highlands when visiting the Eldgjá Canyon, you will need to keep a couple of things in mind:

• You must keep to the trails. The reason why the F-roads open late is because the Icelandic flora is delicate in the Highlands and doesn’t handle disturbance well. The same principle applies to you and your shoes.
• Don’t take souvenirs. Leave rocks, flowers, sticks, and moss where they are. Bringing home a volcanic rock might seem tempting, but it’s not allowed.
• Don’t step on the moss! This is an Icelandic golden rule since the moss grows incredibly slowly and is easily destroyed if it ends up under your shoes.
• There is a WC in the parking area, so do your business in the office, not in nature.
• Fuel up before you go. There aren’t any gas stations along the way, so the long drive to and from the Eldgjá Canyon needs to be done with a proper amount of fuel in the tank.
• There is no such thing as off-roading in the Highlands. Treat the F-roads like regular roads and the surrounding nature like sidewalks and suburban lawns.
• This goes without saying but keep your trash and throw it in the nearest bin. Campsites and parking areas often have bins for trash. Don’t litter in nature.

Other Helpful Tips and Advice for Your Outdoor Adventure in Eldgja

If this is your first time visiting the canyon, the following tips and advice may come in handy:

• Always pack enough water and snacks. This is not just for those planning on doing one of the Eldgja Canyon hikes but for any outdoor adventure. In the unlikely event of some sort of emergency or you get lost, you’ll have enough to sustain you till help arrives.
• Always keep an eye on the Iceland weather forecast, irrespective of the season. There’s a reason why we have a local saying that goes: “You can experience all four seasons in a day in Iceland.”
• Whenever you are near water, whether streams or waterfalls, you need to be careful where you step since trails and rocks can be slippery.
• If you plan on going hiking, it’s always a good idea to have a few hard copy or downloaded maps with you. Technology and signals can fail when you most need them, and you don’t want to get lost.
• Also, ensure that you pack a first-aid kit for any outdoor adventures here in Iceland. This will take care of any basic bumps and bruises or at least keep most things manageable till emergency personnel arrive.
• You should also save Iceland’s emergency number in your phone: 112. This is the number you will dial for any emergency services, whether the fire brigade, medical personnel, the police, etc.  

Eldgjá Canyon in Icelandic Culture and History

As we said earlier: the eruptions from Eldgjá Canyon caused a lot of disturbance in Iceland as well as in Europe. The massive destruction that followed is believed to be a halting factor in the settlement of Iceland. After all, large areas of the settled island were suddenly smoking wastelands with no signs of being hospitable again. Why would anyone settle there?

Another important effect of the eruption is believed to be the proclamation of some Christian figures that this was a sign from God. At the time, Iceland hadn’t officially adopted Christianity and large portions of the population still practiced the Asa belief. 

The Eldgjá Canyon eruption might have played an important role in Iceland becoming a Christian country by law just 60 years later. By that time, most of the island had already converted, possibly influenced by the fear of further actions of an angry god. This is what is theorized by historians since we will never know for sure.

Why You Should Visit Eldgjá Canyon

Iceland is an island of amazing nature and history. The Eldgjá Canyon is the biggest canyon in the world that also managed to convert an entire nation to another religion. There are very few reasons not to visit the Eldgjá Canyon, so rent your car in Iceland and hit the road to explore this fiery and influential canyon!